Confidenses

Speaking about

Cyndia Hurley
2016 recommendations

20 meals
around wines
In June last year, we spent a wonderful day with Sébastien Chambru, « Meilleur Ouvrier de France » and chef of the restaurant « l’Ô des Vignes » at Fuissé, the famous photograph Matthieu Cellar and the writer Jean-Patrick Ménard.
Wine tasting and cooking were the words that day… And greeting a famous chef was quite a challenge : it was all about trust - as it took place in our home - and simply share with our heart.
Be curious and discover 19 other meals around wine in this book, available next November.

Cyndia Hurley
2015 recommendations

Le festin de Monthelie

Revue du vin de France
Octobre 2014

Cyndia Hurley
recommendations

Vivre à Beaune

Le Mastroquet......

Vini e terre di Borgogna

Bourgogne Aujourd'hui, Octobre 2012......

Le Monde , Le sens du vin......

The hats of the Winemakers

Bonnet, straw hat, cap, beret, top hat, sunhat, cap ... .. just as we change our headgear according to the situation, our work also requires constant adaptation. Our task as winemaker does not stop at the vineyard or cellar. We start from A to get to Z, not always with ease, but always with maximum professionalism. Of course the culture of the vine is paramount, but the wine making is fundamental and it is what we love most in our work and the reason we chose.it.

But without trade, we could not exist. The welcoming of guests at the winery, outside tastings, travel abroad, trade shows, open doors .... these punctuate our lives.
And then there is the paperwork that never stops coming in; administrative forms that stack up in the corner of office .... the new European standards, customs declarations, inventories, diverse and varied statements, accounting .... everything that revolves around a company.
As our Domaine is small, so we have to change our hat every moment of the day.
It's a job that requires each year a little more knowledge. Technologies advance and force us to adapt. Thus we become aware of the gaps between the generations, and sometimes the lack of mutual understanding.

The Gastronomy

Probably for the fondness of food and the pleasure of eating and drinking well, and for conviviality and sharing, we have created a « gourmet » activity. The goal is to track down good products, and to share the findings.
We look for producers who respect the environment, working in harmony with the earth, animals and people around them. On sale directly at the Domaine you will find products such as cider, apple juice, pears, oils, vinegars, verjuice, Landes products, seafood, tapenade, patés, spreads. ... and so much more.

Expressions of love

Les Vins de Laure from Grasset productions.

In perfect complicity with the great photographer , Jean-Marie Perrier, Laure Gasparotto, the historian and journalist of the world of wine recalls her meetings on the wine route. An honest book, full of sensitivity.
She writes about Eric : « Thanks to this so-rooted Burgundian, I understood the universal dimension of wine »

Boire sans grossir, sans excès et sans nuire à sa santé from Flammarion productions.

The vineyard comes back to life, leaves grow, the little grapes join in the landscape, the temperatures rise, the sun warms up the bent back, it is full the spring season. The season of renewal, season of a new vintage.
The chosen moment to speak to you about Laure Gasparotto’s book « drink without enlargement, without excess…and without harm to one’s health.
The wine is in our culture, in our gastronomy, in our pleasure, it is a sharing, nobody would contradict that.
In Laure Gasparotto’book, I have discovered the correct place to give to wine in my diet, how to think about it, how to understand it differently, why is it good for my health or wich is the best adapted to my body ? Of what is it realy composed ? I read it with a lot of pleasure, it flow alone, taste it, swallow it in sips and consum it without modération.

Words

Eric is a « farmer », a man of the soil.

« The wine grower will tell you that wine is an art and that he is the craftsman. He will not speak to you about his days of uncertainty, about his nights of apprehension, about his time spent near his tanks. He will tell you that you can be in control of the temperatures, the duration of cuvaison, of the mildew, the grape worms or the date of the grape harvest. But one thing is sure, if you meet him you will share his passion. One that has become my own and for which we fight every day.»
Dominique de Suremain

What his friends say about him :
«He is faithful to the tradition, by protecting what is fundamental. An innovator by conviction, he both adapts himself to the modern world and knows how to remain close to his vineyards.» Cyrille (Bourguignon)

« He is a philosopher of wine, a lover, a passionate person, a poet, sometimes reckless. » Anne, Jean-Luc (Alsaciens)

« Passionate, humble, a noble artisan of wine. To our delight, Eric is part of that race of men for whom the wine quality is achieved by respecting the authenticity of the local soil.» Benoit (Canadien)

« Unusual, direct, honest, patient, loving the taste of sharing. He likes to communicate his love of wine. It is whole, terribly human. Hard on himself and on his own products. Non-conformist, he likes to go back when the others go forward.» Laure (Parisienne)

« Eric loves to enrich his understanding of others and to share his knowledge; this is his sense of sharing. He loves the land, respects it and is relentless in his search to understand the life of which it is composed, with the wonderment of a child. He has a great deal of humility.»Thierry (bourguignon).

Portrait of a Man

We enter the Suremain’s domaine quite slowly. Steps become muffled on the gravel of the circular paths. The aristocratic house of the XVIIIth century imposes itself by the beautiful proportions of its architecture. We immediately fall under the discreet charm of these old stones.
While waiting for the master of this place, we are tempted to go back in time and, like a Watteau canvas, we imagine what courtly festivities and pretty conversation must have graced the life of this property with happiness and lightness, leaving outside its door all the unpleasantness of the world.

Éric de Suremain arrives. In a fraction of a second, we forget our reveries: the man has nothing of a former aristocrat, on the contrary. The welcome is frank, the glance direct, and the dress relaxed. The hands, solid and damaged, are no doubt those of a manual worker which the hard work does not deter. This taste for hard work Éric de Suremain inherits from his father and his grandfather, it is written intothe genes of the family. There was a time when three generations worked together on the 10 hectares of the domaine. Eric, managing the domain alone since 1983, never forgets the family «code of conduct» summed up in these words: we grew up keeping alive the ancestral ‘savoir-faire’, and in years to come, the wine must still carry the mark of the actions of the artisan winemaker who will have made it. So then, is Eric de Suremain backward-looking? Not really. He is simply someone who knows how to draw on the past to chart the future.
He decided in 1996 to convert his vineyard to biodynamic. While others would have carried out testing on a patch of land, he did it everywhere at once. Why would he do otherwise, since for decades, the same natural instincts have governed the management of the vines: homemade compost, use of sulfur and copper, natural grasses ...? « Except for added preparations, there has not been risk-taking, just the outcome of a practice begun a long time ago. » .
In the same way, Eric, one fine day in 2004, took over two former vertical presses «because the juice that came out were like those of yesteryear, so much more elegant than with a modern press». As for the wines, they remain directly in the style of the domaine: fine, honest, classic, uncompromising to the dictates of technology.
Eric takes « what the vine gives him» without needlessly complicating life. Seeing him calmly follow the family path, you might think that Eric Suremain has no need of anyone. But that is reckoning without his taste for sharing: in the early 1990s, he joined a group of young winemakers like him who were eager to move forward in a respectful viticulture of the terroir. Together, they have continued to exchange ideas and to experiment, even up to today. There was no confrontation between the received wisdom of the ancients and that of today but just an adjustment on the basic fundamentals. One might imagine there would be affectation and triviality at the Suremain domaine, but we found a man of simple manners, who uses his experiences as a horizon to broaden. We can leave it as quietly as we entered it. With respect!

Claire Brosse
Journaliste, professionnelle du vin
http://www.culture-vin.fr